Here's the sump removed and given a quick clean.
The new sump drain valve is quickly fitted in place, and although, once tightened, is at a bit of a jaunty angle, it is at least, the right way up.
I noticed some light scratches on the underside of the sump, which acted as a reminder to fit a sump guard!
The billet sump was quite costly (even though it did not come in that Waitrose box!) and needless to say I would like it to stay in one piece.

The indicator DB9 connector has been chopped out as it is surplus to requirements.
Thankfully, when this snake's wedding of wiring that constitutes the dash electronics was created, I had the wherewithal to record all the wire colours and connector pin outs, so (believe it or not) I actually know what all this lot does!
Just have to splice the right wires together and tidy it all up.

The GPS module (pictured) is what I originally intended disassembling and repackaging in the ZX9 clocks, so that the speed display was central with the existing odometer remaining visible. It would look cool!
It is only just now that I think back and realise why I bought the GPS module! I bought it because the ZX9 speedo didn't work...
So, now the ZX9 clocks display the correct speed, there's not that much point in chopping them up to graft in the GPS module. Maintaining the KISS mantra, I've decided to leave the bike clocks "as is"

The engine oil is drained and the sump is off. When the sump is cleaned up, I will post a picture of it, as it is quite blingy.
The only thing wrong with the sump was the sump plug, which was a cut down M12x1.5 bolt.
This is going to be replaced by the Fumoto valve in the picture, which is a much neater engineering solution. They're available in the UK from

The fuel gauge/sender system install continues and the tank is ready to be refitted.

At the other end of the car, whilst removing the dash (completely this time!) I noticed that the cables going into one of the DB9 connectors were a little strained, with one snapping as I moved the connector. Fortunately it was the indicator cabling, which really doesn’t need a removable connector any more (as the switch is now situated on the dash) so a few snips and it was removed.

While I was in the vicinity, I thought “why not mod the ZX9 clocks with my GPS” and a short time later they were removed and disassembled too.

 Firstly, I made sure the intended position of the sender did not interfere with the internal baffles. This done, a 22mm hole was opened up so that the sender shaft could be passed through. Shortly afterwards, it was opened up to allow the 33mm wide float to go through too! (doh!)
The sender fixings could then be marked up.

And here's what it looks like fitted. The sender was removed again to wash out the tank of any debris. I'm going to air dry the tank for a week before installing anything back in it, as well as giving the tank a good external clean like I promised.

This is the sender unit I have bought (from CBS). 
It's the 0-180 Ohm version so it matches the gauge. At 290mm long it fits perfectly in the tank, which is 295mm.
I have already wired it up to the gauge and a 12V source to check it all out and it all works exactly as it should.

Now the trickiest part of this task is going to be fitting the gauge in the dash. The dash was originally made to be removable but there has been an awful lot of stuff added since it was "actually" removable so it isn't quite as easy now.
The removal of the dash had to be done slow and steady and this took quite a bit of time as it was so fiddly. I left it at a convenient break point...
Last task today was to get the car up on stands to save the tyres and make it a little easier to work on (less bending!)

Today was the start of the winter strip down.
To get the fuel sender fitted appears quite simple although of course it means the tank has to come out. 
Firstly the tank was drained and removed from the car. This had the extra bonus of revealing the wiring harness that contains the extra loom wire (that I can use as a sender signal)
I located and de-loomed the spare wire in readiness for rewiring. I think the tank can do with a bit of clean too.

The new rear tonneau is brilliant but I have noticed that, because the rear is now covered, I cannot see the fuel gauge! OK, I know it's obvious but I didn't think about it at the time :-)
So, I now have the need to look for fuel senders and gauges, safe in the knowledge that I have a "spare" wire in the loom that runs from front to rear!
I have just had some plastic boxes delivered as well that make an ideal "boot" area. Pics to follow.

Now, this is the scoop I have just bought and despite the size of it, it still only fits with the PX600 and baseplate removed.
So, it's either go for a bespoke baseplate and trumpets, and use this scoop...
Keep the existing air filter setup and look for another scoop (and it'd have to be even bigger still!)
Currently mulling it over :-)

After one fitting session, and the decision to fit two additional poppers, this is the final result.
A cracking job and the rear tonneau fits perfectly. It was never designed to be a 100% waterproof cover but this is really as close as you can get.
Awesome work from Karen at

In order to stop the rear panel acting as a parachute, I'm getting a rear tonneau cover made by a local yacht cover/sail maker.
In order to get the pattern made, I needed to fit all the popper bases to the car.
The rear ones were relatively easy but the front ones needed the seats removed to get a drill in. Not a big problem, only 8 bolts for the seats and they were out.
Now just waiting to get measured up.

The problem this week was to do with electrics. Although I'm OK with the whole vehicle electrics thing, I still shudder as it means gaining access to places that are now securely bolted down.
Anyway, I go to drive the car to work and the lights won't come on! Did the basic checks to see if I could fix it straight away, but initially all seemed OK. Fuse was good and had 12V available at the contacts.
Later on, I did a little more detailed investigation and it appears that the fuse is not being held securely in the fuse-holder (the fuse blades were too thin - cheap fuses!) 
So, fuse swapped out with a better quality one and we're good to go!

The driveshaft CV joint with the failed bolts has been looked at and it appears that 3 bolts backed off and when it "let go" two more bolts sheared, leaving one bolt in place. Obviously one bolt was never going to hold and it failed.
The last bolt is pictured and it has sheared and well as suffered a lot of distortion.
I have now replaced all of the lobro bolts and thread locked and torqued them up. I cannot source a drilled head version of the bolt and being 12.9 they are quite resistant to being drilled.
I have made a recurring note to check all the driveline bolts (including the diff/prop and the prop adapter) for tightness every week if I have used the car.

Had a slight problem today; stopped off for fuel before going to work. Turned a corner and bang! No drive and a clonky noise from the rear.
Seems the offside outer CV bolts had all backed off enough a few turns each letting the offside driveshaft to become loose!
These bolts were all thread locked and it appears that, despite this, they are all loosening off.
A quick temporary repair was made (just to get me home) but I need to get them all secured 100%.
They are cap head bolts so, in theory, I can drill one edge and lock wire them in pairs.
I will do a test bolt tomorrow to see how it pans out...

Next wee job was to fit the HPC wheel covers. The security bolts were long discarded, so had to be replaced with stainless M8 20mm cap screws. I have little black inserts that fit in the Allen key hole just to keep them clean and I will fit them as soon as I know that the wheel covers will stay on :-)

First thing today was to go and pick up a diff. It's 3.92 open diff so a "diff"erent ratio to my existing 3.62
Lowers the top speed a little but it is still way above the national speed limit. Not planning to track it anytime soon so I'm not too bothered about that.
I want to just see if the clunking reduces. If it doesn't, it just means I have a spare diff :-)

The yellowbox "speedo healer" has now been calibrated and although the actual speedo is occasionally a little jumpy, at least the odometer is accurate. It was previously reading 50% higher (showing 90mph at a real 60mph), so recorded many more miles than was actually being driven. This doesn't help when you're on a limited mileage insurance policy!

The old PX600 was looking a little tired and the foam was starting to break down (after all it is a few years old now)
So, in the attempt to make the intake a little more "bonnet scoop" compatible, I ordered a slimmer replacement.
The top photo is the 120mm version, the bottom is the 90mm.
OK, so it is a little smaller but still will have trouble fitting under most scoops. I will have to have a think...